Eating from a wood fire
The kitchen here cooks over wood rather than gas. That is a deliberate choice and an inconvenient one, because a fire has to be built, fed and read, and it does not turn off when service ends.The reason to accept the inconvenience is what fire does to fish. Skin crisps in a way a pan does not manage, and the smoke sits on the outside of the flesh without ever getting into it, so what you taste is still fish. Squid and whole fish in particular are worth ordering this way.
Ask what came off the fire best that day. The honest answer changes, which brings us to the part of this guide that is genuinely useful.