Fifteen by the glass, and why that number matters
The menu changes every morning with what the fishermen land. A fixed pairing written last week would be wrong by Tuesday.So the glass pours carry the range instead. A New Zealand sauvignon blanc and a South African chenin at the light end. A muscat blend from Penedes and an Alsace pinot blanc in the middle. Then a Sicilian nerello mascalese from Etna, a nebbiolo from Vajra in the Langhe, and a Cairanne from Laurence Feraud in the southern Rhone, which will take anything that comes off the wood fire.
Ask the floor what came in that morning and let them pour against it. That is the intended way to read this list.