France first, and the rest where it earns the place
The backbone is old world. France runs deepest, from Gascony and Bergerac at the everyday end through the Loire, Alsace, Burgundy and both halves of the Rhone. Italy follows: Abruzzo, Puglia, Sicily, Piedmont, Sardinia, Tuscany. Germany brings two Fritz Haag rieslings from the Mosel, one of them a Grosses Gewachs.
New world wines are on the list where they hold their own rather than to fill a gap. Leeuwin Estate from Margaret River, Vina Cobos from Mendoza, three from the Western Cape.
One bottle sits outside all of it. Lazarus Pulp makes a pet nat in Bali from chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, and it goes by the glass at 150. Indonesian sparkling wine is a young idea and this one is worth your curiosity.
The champagne runs from houses you know, Lanson and Bollinger, to small growers who farm their own fruit, Laherte Freres, Larmandier and Marguet.